A new clutch starts out with the fingers set to factory "spec", somewhat forward.
As the clutch wears, the fingers move rearwards toward the TO bearing.
If you start out with them too far rearward they will soon contact the back of the pressure plate assembly (as the clutch wears) and prevent the clutch from engaging.So starting out with them properly (and EVENLY) set is a GOOD thing.
I wonder how good your "lined plate" (friction disc) is.
If it is warped or doesn't run "true" with the hub it will drag and not release when the pressure plate backs away. In another post you were asking about how far the pressure plate has to back off to release the clutch. If the friction disc is good and true the pressure plate doesn't need to move much at all to release it.
If the TO bearing REALLY isn't moving the fingers as far as they need to go when the pedal is depressed it should be possible to re-do the levers that the release linkage attaches to... lengthen the one at the pedal and/or shorten the one at the release shaft to decrease the mechanical advantage and increase the "throw"... will take more leg power on the pedal but the clutch will release farther.
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Today's Featured Article - Bad Vibes - by Curtis Von Fange. One of the strangest ways to communicate with our tractor is to ask it how it feels. "Ask it how it feels," you say? Yup, ask it how it feels. Now, as with the other articles in this series one has to be able to hear what 'ole blue' is trying to say in response. The nice thing about our old iron friends is that they are usually quite consistent in their response, rather unlike some people I know who might change what they say due to the weather or other mitigating circumstances. But since t
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