I would think the form(s) would be easy enough to build from lumber, next thing I would do is quantify how much the form holds, calculate the volume convert units to cubic feet and divide by 27, should be .66 cu. feet per 80 lb bag, IE; a 1'-0" x 2'-0" x 4" x.33" depth convert inches to decimal 12" per foot so (4/12= .33) form so that = .66 = (1) 80 lb bag. Then see how that compares to what you can mix from bags and a stationary mixer, if you are going to use bags, and being a small quantity I assume that to be the case. Then you can set up to pour X number of forms each time, meaning build that many or double..... so on so it's productive. You can possibly adjust your form volume to make things workout to = a batch of an equal quantity, just something to consider, maybe the size of the capstone can't change etc, so it is what it is.
Being that these will be cap stones, you may want to consider adding pitch or slope from the center of the stone, yeah it's easier to build em flat, but the water will run off, just a thought. Coping and cap stones will eventually wear in, meaning you see the aggregate, so you really want a solid finish on the top side, and make sure not to pour in real hot weather, get em done early a.m. or evening, then once set keep em watered down, just make sure they are set and don't erode with high pressure, a soaking, covered with burlap like they do on bridge decks is ideal for curing em slow.
Another thought is the finish, you really want to make sure that form is tight, and you'll want to tap on the edges to eliminate voids. Depending on how you build it, top of the piece can be bottom or top of form, so you may want to consider that to control the quality of the finish you want, cut a strip and place in the bottom to make that recessed area, or use a piece of lumber and do it from the top, only thing is it has to be identical or when you set em the joints could be off. I'm thinking chicken wire or some kind of smaller galvanized fence would work for reinforcing, I've used chicken wire and wire fencing that was non galvanized, just make sure it's completely covered with concrete, edge distance is uniform, anything that is too close can rust, stain and or spall concrete. I'm actually not sure if galvanized steel embedded in concrete can react with anything in concrete, but I have used it on small slabs without noticing any problems.
To get those forms to release, see what your masonry supply house has, they should carry a form release agent, I'm not sure of any MFR's from memory, but there is a material specifically for this. I'm not sure about diesel and any associated aesthetic discoloration, if you use it, do a mock up and see what it does before you do the work, a small wood form to mimic what you are building.
Another thought about form quality, if you are looking for a high end finish, you may want to get a higher grade plywood, they used to sell a plywood at the lumber yard I worked at, specifically for formwork, (was soaked with what I thought was form release agent, sure smelled like it) and use care with selecting lumber and building same. Forms built from lumber used to be common, but since engineered forming systems made that cost prohibitive and obsolete, I wonder if they still produce that plywood, we used to stock 3/4" and it had at least one good side, if not both, stacked/banded units were painted orange, 20+ years ago though.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
Sell 1958 Hi-Altitude Massey Fergerson tractor, original condition. three point hitch pto engine, Runs well, photos available upon request
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
