You want enough power. 35 hp for a smaller older baler is good, 50 hp is needed for a newer bigger baler. In any case you want a _heavy_ tractor. A baler is heavier than it looks, you need enough mass to control the baler, hp isn't so important - weight of the tractor is.
You need live pto. Yes it is possible to bale without live pto, but it is miserable. Get live pto. (Independent pto is even better, but not needed.)
More forward gears are better. Can't have too many. A 4 speed is not so good. A 5 or 6 speed is better. Someting with a hi/low (8-16 speed) is even better.
Dad & now I have pulled a NH 270 baler for decades with a Farmall 300 tractor. t has 35 hp, independent pto, the TA works so it has 10 forward gears. We have hills and we pull a hayrack - now I pull a hay basket - and it is a perfect match.
If the baler were a little higher capacity, or if I had a thrower on it, I'd want more hp.
As it is, it works great.
I also have a 960 Ford, an Ollie Super 77, and ann IHC H. Used all of them at one time or another to bale. The His underpowered & no live pto, didn't like. The other 2 worked fine, but I like the features of the 300 better.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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