How about a rops on your pre 1960/1970 Farmall, IH, Massey, Oliver, Case, Allis ? What is so special how you can be a hypocrite and mention Deere twice? Yet leave out the ½ dozen+ other brands of the same era and similarly designed without a rops in mind. If you had any engineering background or were not motivated by anger/jealousy. You would know that a rops has to be designed to work as a system with the tractor. The tractor chassis as a whole and the attachment points must be able to withstand the stresses a rops under load would pose. The rops also has to be suitable for the particular chassis as well. Too stiff is almost as dangerous as too flexible. Come back with a response when you have safety in mind instead of just looking for somebody to take your own inadequacies out on.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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