i agree. a loose positive connection would still show 12 volts, but may still be low amperage. check your positive path from the battery and trace it all the way to the motor, or, if you have an ampere function on your multimeter, disconnect the positive termination from the motor. now connect the positive lead that you disconnected from the motor to the positive lead of your multimeter, then connect the negative lead of your multimeter to the positive terminal on the motor. hit the switch. read the meter. you should be reading MANY amps. really not sure what sort of current your motor would draw, but dead rotor current (amps) (momentary draw) on most motors found in the household (ie refrigerator motor) can in some cases be over 100 amps (momentarily). so if you're pulling 5 amps to your motor when it's locked rotor (motionless), something's wrong with the wiring.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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