i agree. a loose positive connection would still show 12 volts, but may still be low amperage. check your positive path from the battery and trace it all the way to the motor, or, if you have an ampere function on your multimeter, disconnect the positive termination from the motor. now connect the positive lead that you disconnected from the motor to the positive lead of your multimeter, then connect the negative lead of your multimeter to the positive terminal on the motor. hit the switch. read the meter. you should be reading MANY amps. really not sure what sort of current your motor would draw, but dead rotor current (amps) (momentary draw) on most motors found in the household (ie refrigerator motor) can in some cases be over 100 amps (momentarily). so if you're pulling 5 amps to your motor when it's locked rotor (motionless), something's wrong with the wiring.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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