ohiojim said: (quoted from post at 06:29:42 01/23/09) if what you have is a overrun clutch, remove both grease fittings and line up the hole with the pin inside and the pin should come out with little effort, put the big hammer away.....
Got it! Last night I soaked it again in wd40 and this morning and the outside was able to spin so I could line up the real hole I didn't know existed. Pin popped right out. Thanks!
any way now the real PTO shaft (not the clutch) has the indent farther in from the end of the shaft, and the sliding lock drive shaft coupling will not engage. So I have to put the clutch back on to get it to couple up.
Would that clutch make much difference on drilling in hard pan/soft rock? or is it mainly a bush hog thing?
Looks like I am going to have to shorten the drive shaft or weld new ears on the drill to get it farther from the tractor. Any Ideas?
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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