Brent in IA said: (quoted from post at 07:29:23 12/31/08)
Yep, the local Ford dealer told me last year that if he took my truck into his shop to replace the leaky exhaust manifold gasket on one side I may be looking at $900- $1,000 total. He explained that they would likely break a stud off taking the manifold off, then they would have to pull the head to drill the stud out, then with 90,000 miles (at that time) they would do a valve job and would have to do both sides so the engine stayed balanced...blah blah blah...so a simple gasket replacement turned into a $1,000 job.
Sounds about right. Dad has a 1995 F250 w/ 460 that we fixed the standard exhaust manifold leak on last fall. We went into the project knowing the heads were going to come off to remove broken studs. Ended up with 3 twisting off. I work at a machine shop, so the valve job was free (98k miles on heads). Replaced waterpump while everything was torn apart. Changed camshaft looking for a little more torque, which lead to new valve springs and a good timing chain set. By the time it was all said and done, it was a $1000 to fix a exhaust manifold leak, and that was with "free" labor.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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