I agree.I think whenever you overhaul one you could soup them up some,like whatever you can do with a stock motor,maybe raise the compression a little,turn up the RPMs a little,maybe use dome or lug pistons if they are available,but boring out the block and using way oversize pistons only if you are pulling it in competition.Maybe even bore the block a little if you want,just not so much it gets hot idleing.Most old tractors are OK for power stock,but a lot nicer to run souped up a little.
GM seems to be like a cheap company,like they try and do things with the same design for many years,for instance the 2 stroke Diesel.They could just as easy as anybody else built a diesel motor right,but no,they took the cheap route.Gave diesel motors a bad reputation.However,what I saw was most people that maintained their vehicles like they should had less trouble than people who kind of changed the oil when they felt like it.I think its a lot more critical to change the oil,maybe even pull the pan and look at the bearings,if it looses water,pull the head right then and replace a blown headgasket rather than run it till it quits and try and fix it then.Even if you did all that some of those diesels would bust a crank or something.Cheap is not always what you think it is.I think it would have been cheaper for GM to build a diesel motor from the ground up rather than convert a gas motor,but at least they can say they know now and had guts enough to try it.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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