Posted by Gordon in IN on August 03, 2008 at 14:46:11 from (66.244.101.152):
In Reply to: Rims and Tires posted by Lanse on August 03, 2008 at 12:18:58:
Lanse,
If you want minimum cost, look for some of the "Temporary Spares". Some of them for GM cars and Vans had the same bolt pattern as the WC and WD tractor fronts. Look for the 16 inch ones and you can use the temporary spare TIRE as well. The wheel center may need to be cut or ground out. It is POSSIBLE to do with a saber saw or a "sawsall" or a small hand grinder. A cutting torch is not the best way to do this as not much metal needs to be removed and a torch will heat up the wheel and likely warp it and may cause the wheel to crack. Some of them (full size Pontiac, Buick, Oldsmobile, and Cadilac and some Vans - some years may fit "as is".) I have run a couple of them on the front of a WC for a number of years, then put new 16 inch tractor front - three rib tires on the same "temporary spare" wheels (when I got them on sale at a really good - low price). Also "temporary spare" wheels and tires make good "bush hog" tires and wheels, just throw them away when they get cut up. The 15 or 14 inch ones will work if used in "matched pairs". Also you can put larger used 15 inch car or truck tires on the 15 or 14 inch "tempory spare" wheels. Also you can use the standard car wheels from these cars and put larger tires on to get about the same Outside Diameter as the original tractor front tire. I ran a set of 14 inch Pontiac (standard full size car wheels) on a WC for years (with the centers ground out) with the largest (widest) tires I could find on it. The wheels had a different web spacing or offset and allowed plenty of room for the larger - wider tires. (There was enough space between the tires that the tires did not "rub" each other.) They did not steer as well when plowing or using an angled blade but seem just fime for anything else. If you do this do not run too much air pressure in the larget tires. I think I ran about 22 to 24 P.S.I. in the larger tires on the front of the tractor.
If you can get to yard sales you can sometimes find very good tires and wheels (even mounted) for very low prices. Sometimes if you find them late on the last day of the yard sale you can get them VERY cheap of free. Around here it costs $5.00 to drop off (get rid of) a mounted tire at the "solid waste center" and someone has to haul the tires there.
If all you have is surface rust on your wheels, just clean it off and give the wheel a coat of paint and let it dry well. Have you ever mounted a tire on a wheel? The car, small truck and wagon one piece steel wheels are rather easy to mount a tire on - if you know how. If you are using tubes in the tires you can even air them up with a "hand tire pump"- if you really want to. (That is how it "use to be done" years ago when time was not as valuable as it is today.) Is there someone available that can show you how to mount a tire on a wheel? Also learn how to properly - SAFELY inflate a mounted tire. Taking the tire off the wheel is the difficult part for me. Good luck in your efforts. Gordon in IN
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let’s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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