Hey Jose B, Brian, and MarkB_, (and the rest of y'all) input is much appreciated! Brian, you're a feller I'd be trackin' right after. The soldering is kind of a PITA, but I figure, scratch that, I am certain the reliability of the conection(s) is more than pretty durned important (we're talkin' brakes here). Gerald J. had some good commentary on the subject of crimp vs. solder (I'm leaning hard his way). I'm also adding all the conductive and non-conductive di-electric grease appropriately where I can and when I need to. I'm also working, for my first time, with "Weatherpak" (TM) connectors, without the benefit of the $78 crimping tool they so like to sell with that system. So far, so good. Can't really pull them apart on just the crimp without a pretty good fight. After a drop of solder in there....forgetaboudit. The double crimp required is not impossible to accomplish with the normal low-tek wire stripping/crimping tools. Supposedly bullet proof, I'll report on that later after the trial run if requested. You fellers are all doin' me proud. Thanks!!
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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