I"ve shot some sports photography though normally I do studio and print work. Any of the good DSLR"s will do what you want. The camera isnt what makes great images, its the photographer first and then the lens. It pains me to say it, but Canon is probably your best bet (since I shoot Olympus). Reason being is the lenses are so much cheaper. For sports I use at least a 200mm lens and bigger is in this case better. I like to take two cameras, one set up with a long lens and one with a regular 14-45 studio lens for action close to where I am. Dont get hung up on megapixels. I use a 5.0 MP Olympus E-1 and an 8 MP Olympus E 300.
Editing software will cover a multitude of camera sins but once again, there is a lot to using it beyond what I have found in print. I use Photoshop 5.5 and 9.0.
After you get your stuff, get to know your lighting. Each gym and each type of lighting will have a different temperature. The easiest way to deal with this I"ve found is to shoot in camera raw. You can then correct temperature in your editing program. Its a memory hog though. I get 56 images on a 1 GB card in raw and 256 in high resolution JPG. Personally, I shoot sports with the f stop set to where I want it for the depth of field and the shutter on auto. Sometimes you get some dark images but you can boost exposure in your editing. Hard set your film speed at no more than ISO 200 though, otherwise film grain and noise can be a real problem. I get a lot of problems with that in concert footage. Once again, your editing software can help you out. Instead of correcting grain duplicate a layer, gaussian blur 1-2 MP in the top layer, and then reduce opacity. A lot of grain just melts away.
My email is open if you have questions. I"ve linked one of my online pages here.
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