You HAVE to have the pistons at the shop, so they can "finish hone" the block to the final dimension, after boring, for the EXACT desired piston oil clearance.
However, it's best to have the shop guys VERIFY they can clean the bores up @ .045" OS, BEFORE ordering the pistons.
AND, it's just common courtesy to at least give the shop a "shot" at $upplying the parts BEFORE simply getting them from an outside source.
Most often, you will find the parts through the shop to be a bit MORE than you can get them for from another source, however, often your final bill will be NO more, if they supply the parts, 'cause, often, the shop prices tend to get "adjusted" upward a bit, if YOU supply the parts. At least, give them a "shot" at it, if they sell parts.
After going this far, WHY would you even consider NOT taking the rods in, and having them checked, as well as "pin fitted", rebushed, if necessary?
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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