This is one of those topics where you get a range of OPINIONS so may as well toss mine out and what works for me.
1) I change oil in the fall before storage cuz I dont want all that acid n residue from the used oil sititn in my crankcase all winter corroding the metal.
2) I put gas stabilizer PLUS some low ash 2 cycle outboard marine oil in the gas tank, run her good n warm with that mixture in the tank to get it in the carb, turn the gas off n let the carb run dry and that can leave some oil film residue to coat n protect the carbs interior
3) Sharpen the blades SO I DONT HAVE TO IN THE SPRING and then coat with grease to prevent rust.
4) Clean off grass so moisture cant accumulate n remain all wet n cause rust,,,,,,,,,grease n oil all lube points,,,,,,keep light film of oil on critical parts n cables to avoid rust
5) Loosen belts so they arent in the same position under tension all winter
6) Air tires full which may help to keep the bead sealed
7) Disconenct a battery cable just in case of any trickle discharges and charge the batery n if possible use a trickle maintenance charger now n then.
8) Keep a loose breatheable dust cover over her to keep off debris but DO NOT have it all tight n sealed so moisture can accumulate n never get air dried
Again, everyone has their own method n opinion, thats just how I do it n it works fine n I intend to continue
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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