They are both gas. Idle and power mixture. Idle will accept a small screw driver, power is at the base with a cross bar or a hole if the cross bar fell out.
Drain the bowl by removing the plug at the bowl base, I seem to remember it is a 7/16. You don't want to be fighting a bowl of snot and water.
Tune the idle first, max speed or highest vacuum. Power is best done at load, belt work, generator, dyno, tune for peak power then detune rich 1 HP. You don't want to be lean, you will burn a valve. Don't ask me how I know.
A stumble from idle to power on the throttle indicates a lean condition.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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