Full floater, correct? You can't just open the differential up and weld a keeper on the end of the axle like you might with a semi-floater where the bearing is on the axle and seated inside the axle housing. The full floater hub has the bearings that ride on the axle tube, the axle itself is not carrying the load, only transmits power (it floats inside the axle tube). Your wagon doesn't even need the axle itself, just a cover plate over the hub opening to protect the bearings.
Your picture isn't clear; however, it appears the axle nuts are still in place and the bearing broke up and allowed the hub to pass over the nuts. If that is the case, it may cost a bit, but if the axle tube is ok, the hub didn't break and the bearing and seal areas of the hub are still useable; installing new bearings and seal will be the quickest, and likely the least costly repair. If the numbers are on the cup and the cone inner races, you should be able to shop the bearings for price. pack the bearings with grease and assemble. Get rid of the drum remains and the shoes. Drill and tap the hub for a grease fitting if you want to add grease easily in the future. You can weld a dirt shield to the backing plate over the center area of the hub to help keep water from running on the hub seal.
If the axle housing/tube and hub are not useable it may not be worth the cost of repair to you. A different axle, installing trailer spindles likely mean different hubs, wheels and tires. I don't see those as options if you are saying it isn't worth the cost of bearings.
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