Barnyard fix for a GM 14 bolt on a wood trailer

Heading back to pick up a load of firewood this morning, I look back to see that the trailer had developed the dreaded "extendo-axle." Broken hub bearings.

I haven't looked at it close to see if it is even repairable, but new bearings are $110. The whole trailer isn't worth that much.

You'd think a guy could find an old junk axle out of something but everyone thinks they're worth hundreds of dollars because Jeep guys use 'em in their offroad rigs. "No lowballers. I know what I got."

It's just a firewood trailer. Needs to make one trip to the woods per year, at most. Anybody got a cheap/easy way to keep the wheel from walking out of the axle housing? I tried pouring ATF on it already, but maybe I'm doing it wrong.

This post was edited by BarnyardEngineering on 12/17/2023 at 12:28 pm.

First thought is - If you can find enough of the old bearings for a bearing house to measure the inside and outside diameters,
they should be pretty reasonable there. Second thought would be to look for another trailer with a usable axle.

What are the bearing numbers? Did you try Rock Auto?
Looks to me like you could get bearings there for a
little over $20, shipping will add a bit to that. Have to
see if that link takes you the right place I was looking
under a 1980 3/4 ton Chevy.
Look here

If your area is anything like Minnesota
with road salt you'll likely have 50-60
dollars on new ubolts if you did replace
it. So bearings don't seem too bad then.
Also you could probably swap 10 or 12 bolt
axle in too, should be cheaper. Most have
same spring perch width.

Use an old implement spindle shoved in the housing and weld it in. That is not a floating axle so to speak but the axles is like a car axle where the retainer holds the bearing in along with the axle am I right if so it will probably need the retainer replaced also.

You could get new spindles, hubs and bearings, cut the ends off your axle, weld new spindles in it. Depending on your bolt pattern you may need new wheels.

I bought a pair of 3500# hubs and stubs(7000# total) for $130.00 complete with new seals and bearings. It has been 5 years ago, so the prices have gone up.

This is where I got them.

Similar to these which are 3500# total



R & P Trailer Sales




This post was edited by Hemmjo on 12/17/2023 at 02:24 pm.

(quoted from post at 14:35:21 12/17/23) Use an old implement spindle shoved in the housing and weld it in. That is not a floating axle so to speak but the axles is like a car axle where the retainer holds the bearing in along with the axle am I right if so it will probably need the retainer replaced also.

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I like your idea, but look closer. It's definitely a full floater. You can see the bearing cages on the axle tube. Inner and outer bearings completely shelled out. Pile of rollers inside the hub.

Any pre independent front truck axle. Align the wheels and weld the spindles to the axle yokes gotta be cheap. Jim

May not have them there but here in alabama you can get a mobile home axle with tires/wheels for $150.

If you want real cheap--weld an 'L' shaped bracket to that angle iron
on the side of the bed, and have it come out and over the tire, and
down along the sidewall. I don't know how far or how many turns you
have to make, but that might hold a short distance. Mark.

I make my own. Just go to the local Pull and Save, unbolt two hubs off the rearend of an 80's vintage GM full-sized front wheel drive, like an Eldorado. Then make a couple of 1/2'' plates to fit the bolt pattern of the bolt-on spindles, and weld them to the ends of some heavy-wall square tube. You might want to salvage the wheels too when you get the hubs. Or pull the whole rear axle. Very common 5 on 4.75 lug pattern. steve

Aren't those axles retained by c-clips inside the differential carrier?

Full floater, correct? You can't just open the differential up and weld a keeper on the end of the axle like you might with a semi-floater where the bearing is on the axle and seated inside the axle housing. The full floater hub has the bearings that ride on the axle tube, the axle itself is not carrying the load, only transmits power (it floats inside the axle tube). Your wagon doesn't even need the axle itself, just a cover plate over the hub opening to protect the bearings.

Your picture isn't clear; however, it appears the axle nuts are still in place and the bearing broke up and allowed the hub to pass over the nuts. If that is the case, it may cost a bit, but if the axle tube is ok, the hub didn't break and the bearing and seal areas of the hub are still useable; installing new bearings and seal will be the quickest, and likely the least costly repair. If the numbers are on the cup and the cone inner races, you should be able to shop the bearings for price. pack the bearings with grease and assemble. Get rid of the drum remains and the shoes. Drill and tap the hub for a grease fitting if you want to add grease easily in the future. You can weld a dirt shield to the backing plate over the center area of the hub to help keep water from running on the hub seal.

If the axle housing/tube and hub are not useable it may not be worth the cost of repair to you. A different axle, installing trailer spindles likely mean different hubs, wheels and tires. I don't see those as options if you are saying it isn't worth the cost of bearings.

(quoted from post at 03:57:08 12/18/23) Aren't those axles retained by c-clips inside the differential carrier?

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No. It's a full-floating axle. What you're describing is a semi-floating rear axle.

(quoted from post at 05:00:38 12/18/23)If the axle housing/tube and hub are not useable it may not be worth the cost of repair to you. A different axle, installing trailer spindles likely mean different hubs, wheels and tires. I don't see those as options if you are saying it isn't worth the cost of bearings.

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I'm just thinking I should be able to pick up a useable axle for scrap price. My neighbor who's better-connected is checking with some farms he does work for. They've got lots of junk trucks laying around.

(quoted from post at 08:28:55 12/18/23)

(quoted from post at 05:00:38 12/18/23)If the axle housing/tube and hub are not useable it may not be worth the cost of repair to you. A different axle, installing trailer spindles likely mean different hubs, wheels and tires. I don't see those as options if you are saying it isn't worth the cost of bearings.

Click to expand...

I'm just thinking I should be able to pick up a useable axle for scrap price. My neighbor who's better-connected is checking with some farms he does work for. They've got lots of junk trucks laying around.

Click to expand...

Hope you can find one complete with useable tires, or that your tires fit.

I assume 110 bucks is just for one side, so it will cost $220 to do both sides. That's still cheaper and less aggravation than almost any other solution. As I recall, it's not that difficult to replace the bearings and seal on a full-floating axle.

Turns out it's NOT a GM 14 bolt. Honestly I never looked. I just assumed it was a 14 bolt because the trailer was made from the frame of an old Chevy truck and it has the old wheels and tires off Dad's 78 GMC on it.

Turns out the donor truck was even older than I thought. The axle is a GM/Eaton H052 or H072.

Only one source I can find for wheel bearings, and it's $160 for one wheel. The Timken number they give doesn't cross to anything else.

Found a couple of GM 14 bolts on Marketplace for $150 and $100 respectively. The $100 one has wheels and tires.

This post was edited by BarnyardEngineering on 12/19/2023 at 08:46 am.