Begin with the corn meter units. They can be taken to a JD or Kinze dealer to be tested and the technician in the shop can advise on any parts they may need. Bean cups or bean meters? Check all drive chains for stiffness. If heavily rusted then replace. Bearings rusty? Then replace. The back 3/8 drive shaft should turn fairly easily with use of medium length (8-10 inch) 9/16 wrench. If not replace chains and/or bearings. Fertilizer and seed disks should have good contact and turn easily by hand. If disks are wore that the two mated disks turn hard or do not make contact then replace. Heavily checked or cracked fertilizer squeeze pump hose or distribution hoses should be replaced. Metal tube running in back of fertilizer disk openers readily allow liquid to pass. If not then replace. Tires hold 29 PSI pressure and not serious cracked? Hydraulic cylinder and hoses do not leak. When raising and lowering do markers readily drop and alternate Right left over and over again? If not probably sticky mechanism inside main box tube. Does monitor readily read seed when dropping through tube below meters? In a perfect world you would not need a monitor but this world is far from perfect. Especially after dark. I'm sure somebody else will catch something that I have missed.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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