Well IMHO here and i have done loads of engine work over the years i personally do not think it needs line bored , Now for the rods yea i would have both ends done and Sleeves and pistons YES , Your not going to Hone those deep scratches out , if you take that much out then you more then likely will have piston slap . I pesonally have the crank turned . And with the block i would be worried about the lower counter bore area as i have seen some pretty nasty looking counter bores in Oliver engines that we have worked on . I mainly work on I H tractors but i also did contract work for and old Oliver dealer from time to time when they got swamped . Ya can tell that tractor did a lot of running where it got a lot of clutch use at higher RPMS by how the thrust side of the main looked like when baling and held down for long periods of time . or someone rode the clutch pedal . . Look at the thrust side of that crank well as it may not be usable . Now had the mains looked more woren off center then a line bore would be required. Tons of hours , poor quality oil not changing oil when one should , Ring breakage could be caused by use of EITHER or timing being off or low quality fuel.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let’s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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