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Re: Ford 2N points issue


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Posted by used red MN on February 10, 2023 at 00:00:10 from (68.46.31.28):

In Reply to: Re: Ford 2N points issue posted by DonDon on February 09, 2023 at 18:35:00:

Sorry this is long, but this needs some details to be
able to work through it properly. Well hopefully I get a
little help or nod of approval from some Ford guys that
the information I give here is correct. I am not a Ford
guy never been around them still trying to learn some
of there oddities. The connections of your alternator
output to the ignition switch gets the job done but it
NOT correct. In fact depending on how they wired it
you may even have some melting insulation up under
the dash where too much current was feeding through
wiring. Check the wiring between the ignition switch
and the ammeter that is where too much current
..amps.. may have been passing. Now here is the part I
am still learning on. I am attaching a wiring diagram
that I believe is correct, see 1st link. I am referring to
the second diagram on that page named ..12 Volt
Conversion.. In the upper center it shows a ..terminal
block.. the bottom center terminal of that is the
suggested connection where the Alternator output
wire should go. There is a possibility your tractor was
wires without this. That block is an original part which
is one of the Ford oddities I recently learned about.
This site offers that part, see 2nd link. I say it is an
oddity because very few original 6 volt systems used
resistors but apparently these did and they are said to
be 0.5 ohms. Also another place I am not certain what
correctly applies to the different models but in stock
form I believe your tractor would have a ..front mount 6
volt coil.. If so when converting to 12 volts your ignition
power needs to come from the switch through the .5
ohm resistor on the terminal block and then again in
series through the 1.6 ohm ballast resistor and then to
the coil. All this is shown on the diagram. I also do not
know exactly how that terminal block mounts it
appears that it may be made of an insulating fiber
board and use some counter sunk head screws for
mounting. If you go to the YT parts from the big
..Tractor Parts.. square at the top of the page and
navigate down to the 2N electrical section you will see
there is another more expensive terminal block sold by
them and it shows the mount hardware with it. If you
did not have this block before I said earlier the
alternator is suggested to connect there. I personally
would run the alternator output wire up to the right
side terminal of the ammeter as shown on the diagram.
Defining which terminal is the actual correct one to
connect to on your tractor left..right etc. can be done
by placing it on the ..opposite.. terminal of the one that
is going to battery power. There may be, in fact it is
likely, there will be multiple wires on that terminal.
Without the ..terminal block.. that amp gauge terminal
could be the connection place for the ignition switch
and the light power feed. Doing it this way eliminates
the extra connections made by use of the ..terminal
block.. I know this deviation from the diagram
complicates the finished product but I personally think
it is the best method if you are not looking for
originality, that goes out the window when you change
it to 12 volts. I should add that the alt. output feed wire
to the ammeter should be 10 gauge as should the wire
that connects to the opposite side of the ammeter that
goes to pick up battery power which will be from the
solenoid stud where the positive battery cable
connects. I hope this cures your problem. I also hope
other Ford guys stop by and add any needed
corrections or comments.



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