I thought I would update this with my latest findings.
Ran comp test to check for broken valve train: 95,110,115, 110. So that checks out.
Removed and cleaned the cap, rotor and wires. Inspected and gapped the points.
Cleaned all spark plugs, they looked pretty good except 1 had some oil fouling on the insulator. Changed the order, and installed them back. Put the cap, rotor and wires back on. I have a blue spark at the plug.
Still will not start and run. However, I noticed that the cranking speed when the plugs were in is much slower than with the plugs out during the comp test. I don't think the engine is turning over fast enough to get it running. It will fire once in a while, but not enough to catch up and run on all 4.
I'm going to try to pull start it next, and maybe repl the points and condenser just to get everything at once. 6V system, and it just doesn't crank very fast during starting.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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