Have you checked the actual flow of fuel out of the drain on the carb? Many times when these old tractors set around the fuel condenses moisture in the tank the tank rusts and ..barnacles.. rust and crud build up. Then when you start using it jostling around the fuel in the tank washes this stuff of the inside of the tank and it start to plug things in the fuel system. Take a good flashlight and look down in tank see if there is anything down there to plug off the fuel flow into the sediment bowl. Is also can find its way into the needle of float shut off and then it intermittently does as you described the gas runs out of the carb when the engine is off. The gas can run out and seem like a lot but can fool you into the wrong impression. So often the ..knee jerk.. reaction is to out smart the design of the carb and set the float to a level where the carb just does not work. Seems like your experience. Hopefully you know or have learned what Catguy stated that the main fuel mixture screw is what is adjusted to control the air fuel mix to the engine. What I would like you to check as mentioned above how much fuel is actually getting to the carb? You should be able to fill a pint jar in 3 minutes. That is also MINUS what initially flows out of the contents of the carb fuel bowl. Also there is a screen in the elbow fitting that the fuel line hooks to on the carb. Take that out and check for plugging. Another thing is the oil bath air cleaner be in need of service and restricting air flow, but that would normally give you black smoke at the exhaust. I will email you some useful literature.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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