If you don't have the manuals, go get signed up at https://www.casecoltingersoll.com/
As for dropping the hoe and subframe...
Assuming you've got it running, it isn't too terrible.
You can take the weight off the mounting pins by sitting it on the feet, and bucket. Drive the pins out. Make sure you're not in a bad spot in case something shifts a little when they come out. The hoe is heavier than it looks. Shut down. You can then break the hydraulic connections, and disconnect the hoe. Reconnect the lines on the tractor.
I usually turn the tractor around then and park next to the hoe.
I run a strap under the weight, and over the crossbar on the boom. Use the boom to take the weight off the mounting pins for the subframe. Take those pins out, and let the frame and weight down. That weight is 500#, so stay clear of that thing.
Now, you're down to a regular 648...
I can't help much with the engine, the 646 has a CCK. Your hydraulic circuits are a little different as well due to the power steering.
You will absolutely want to get the cover off the rear end, and clean that all out. They're notorious for leaking, and ending up full of water.
Check over the frame, loader towers, and loader boom for cracks. The hoe is really way too strong for these tractors. My machine came cracked in half, with both towers half cracked, and cracks all over the loader.
That said, if you take the time to put things right, there is no stronger machine in the size/weight class. 700# of lift on the bucket per the manual. I've been able to just pick up enough with mine to take all the weight off the rears to the point I had to extend the hoe, and throw some weight in the hoe's bucket to be able to move. While they share a lot of the garden tractor components, and concept, these machines were sold through the Case industrial dealers. They are rock solid machines once you get the feel for them. You've got the end of the evolution in the Case line, before it was sold to Ingersoll. Ingersoll made changes in their 6000, and 7000 series, that made some improvements, but those are minor.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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