You cannot eyeball that mess and make a sensible decision. Try cleaning it up first to see what you really have. All it will cost is a piece of sandpaper and an hour of your time. Take a piece of wet/dry sand paper, 600 grit. Cut a strip to fit perfectly around the crank pin, and tape the ends together. Put 1 wrap of rope, small hose, or a spark plug wire around the sandpaper and pull the end alternately to make the sandpaper rotate. After about 15 seconds you will have a surface you can accurately measure. You have to have a light touch on the rope; do pull both ends too hard or it will choke the sandpaper against the crank pin and it wont turn. It will turn hard for the first few strokes as the high spots are being cut off and/or the sandpaper wears out slightly. Before taping the ends together, though, put a dot of oil on the crank pin to keep the sandpaper from plugging. After you get it turning good, you can simply spray some penetrating oil on the edges of the sandpaper to keep the cuttings floated out. The method of measuring is whatever you like best. If you come up with .0025 clearance with a new bearing insert, Id say you are in good shape. Any more than that, I would call some suppliers and see if anyone offers bearings in undersized of .002-.005 inches. Failing that, Im afraid the crank will have to come out.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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