There isn't one test to tell you everything about a battery,
The voltage alone doesn't mean everything. The charging rate doesn't mean everything. Leave charger on until it auto shuts off. Then use a hydrometer,
You can get a very good hydrometer from NAPA with a built in thermometer. If all hydrometer readings aren't the same, a good chance you have a bad cell. A carbon load tester will also tell you if the battery can produce the amps. I like using my Midtrontics meter, It measures volts and estimated current capability. 99% of the time the midtrontics meter can tell me instantly if I have a bad cell and the battery is junk. Some new smart chargers won't charge if you have a bad battery too. NO battery likes cold temps. The colder it gets the less they like to take a charger. My car has a built in voltmeter. When I have very cold temps, the alternator will produce 15.5 vdc. Not sure if all cars will produce that high of charging voltage. My car has a huge AGM battery because the engine turns off at stoplights.
Warm your battery, charge it, then after it sits for a day or so, measure with hydrometer and voltmeter.
Measuring voltage as soon as you take it off the charger is meaning less, unless the voltage is below 12v.. All you are doing is measuring surface charge. I have a carbon load tester, hydrometer and midtrontics volt meter and estimates current amps. I Can't use hydrometer on AGMs
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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