Those are some really small compressors. Look like 1.5 or 2 HP motors.
Ideally, each motor would have its own control, completely separate from each other, designed to be serviceable without interrupting the air supply.
There may have been an alternating relay so each compressor would get equal run time, and the 2 pressure switches would have been set so if one compressor couldn't handle the volume, both would come on.
If you want to keep that feature, you will need 2 FVD's, one for each motor.
Or you could use one pressure switch, one large VFD, and run both motors at the same time. That would be the easiest and most economical approach.
To size the VFD, add the motor HP together, then go to the next size bigger VFD.
If they are 1 1/2 HP motors, you will need a 5 HP VFD. If 2HP, go with a 7 1/2 HP.
Be sure the motors are wired for 230v and the VFD is rated for 230v.
The pressure switch will wire to the aux input terminals of the VFD, the motors MUST be controlled through the VFD, not wired directly to the pressure switch. This will be covered in the owner's manual/set up procedures.
There are a lot of VFD's to choose from. You won't need anything fancy or expensive, just the basics. TECO Westinghouse is about the cheapest and they work well.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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