Watch this video at the 11:45 mark. As is said by others keep the bead of the tire that is already over the rim lip down in the smaller diameter section of the rim ..valley if you will.. is most helpful. Clamping a vice grip on the rim lip at the point the bead crosses over the rim opposite of where you are prying to hold the progress from going backwards is also helpful. Stressing the use of good mounting lube cannot be over stated. Progressing around the rim advancing 2 - 4 inches past the spot where the bead is crossing over the rim lip to get the next pry spot or ..bite.. with your bar. And as you see him do go to the other side or half already over the lip as stated at the first and get the tire to settle in the ..valley.. or reduced diameter area again is key, so working back and forth as you progress. A tire tool with a spoon profile as is on the one in the link is ideal. My uncle has one we have used for years on the farm it is more flat and has a ..speed bump.. sort of hump across it and it works far better than any other tire spoon I have seen.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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