Well, I'd make the footing at a depth of what is acceptable for your area. (I don't know where you live). A local cement contractor would be a good place to find out. When you do lay forms and poor cement, make sure that the cement immediately out side of where the door hits the cement angles downward. I know a couple guys that (not thinking) made thier cement level to the outside of wall (door was recessed inside the wall 6 to 8 inches) and then the outside pad tappered downward. Anyways, just that 6 to 8 inches of level concrete outside of door was eneough to allow rain water and melting snow to run underneath of door to the inside (both had concrete floors inside).
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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