Diagnose first then change parts!!!! putting parts in can create more problems compounding the fault. Easy first checks: Take the air intake hose/pipe off the carburetor, open the throttle to 1/2 open, and (safely in neutral) hold your hand over the intake while cranking the engine with the starter. There should be very strong suction. If there is none or very little, it is an indication of valve timing issues. This assumes the engine has run OK before it started to decline. If good suction, checking the fuel flow to the carb is next. It needs to flow for one minute and fill a pint or more into a clean jar. Is there Spark?, does the spark come out of the plug wires? Are the wires on the correct plugs in the firing order? are the points gapped correctly on the peak of the distributor cam? Is there play up down toward and away in the distributor shaft? is there power to the coil using a test light? Does a test light blink when touching the distributor side of the coil when cranking? All these should be able to be done with low effort. Then if the issue has not been found, do a compression check. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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