no, the strap (usually) causes the bead to move outward toward the rim flange for initial capturing of air when trying to get the bead even partially sealed. It mostly pushes outward enough for the bead to touch, not adding any to the force the air supplies. My recommendation to you is to reduce the pressure in the tire just above where the bead touches the rim shoulder, not the flange. Use a tire iron to loosen the part of the bead already touching the rim until all of the bead is just touching the shoulder all around evenly. now apply Ru-glide lube to the whole bead and shoulder so it has a chance to come over the shoulder all at once, rather than crooked. I remind you that 50 PSI is 50 on every square inch of the tire's inside. lets say there is 2000 square inches in the sidewall facing up (tire laying on the ground) Put 50 psi in it and you get 100,000 pounds of force ready to blow the rim to bits as it jumps an inch outward. Go gently! Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning Up Your Tractor: The Battery - by Curtis Von Fange. Buried somewhere beneath the sheetmetal, under the gas tank, or stuffed in front of the radiator is the battery. This elusive and neglected component of the tractor is the hardest to get to when it is dead and in need of a jump. But usually, the storage battery is a storehouse of electrical energy waiting to be released a the flick of a switch. A few maintenance tips and periodic cleaning will keep it charged for the duration of its life span. The battery is made up of a number of lead bas
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