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can't seat bead on tractor tire

C

chas036

Member
I installed a new 12 x 38 rear tire on my JD-B and I can't get the bead to set and seal completely on one side of the rim.. One side is completely set , but the other side will not set the bead in the rim .

I pumped up the tire to 45 ibs and soaked it with a special tire bead lubricant and still no luck. I deflated and inflated 3 different time and still no luck. The max pressure on the tire says 35 lbs, and i have already put in 45 lbs. Can I put in more than that and still be safe? Is there another secret to getting it to seat?
 
BTDT,put 50 in it and let it set. Just make sure it has started not hanging down in the dish. My last job was running the shop for
a tire store.
 
I used silicon caulk on lawnmower tire. It worked, It worked so well, I had to take it
to a tire shop to get a new valve stem installed. I couldn't break the bead with
sledge. The silicon acted like a glue when it hardened over the years.
 
You are pretty well maxed out not for air pressure. Any more
and your playing with your life! What is this special lube ? U
need Murphys soap. Make sure the rim and tire are both
lubed.the son and me just mounted 2 tires on my brothers
tractor this weekend. Went on slicker than snot on a roosters
you you what. They seated at less than 40 psi. Lube is the
trick. Dish soap is useless. Just have to start from scratch,
plus so make sure the valve stem core is out so air goes in as
fast as possible. If your doing 50 psi. I would not be standing
around that tire, it can turn into a bomb. Plus hope they are
mounted on the tractor.
 
I had a heavy trailer tire that wouldn't seat properly. I kept putting air in, pounding on the tire, lots of tire lube, ratchet strap around the outside, nothing
worked. I have a locking air inflator that I attached to the valve stem (without the core), ran a 100 feet of hose back into the shop, set the air compressor at
the pressure on the sidewall, and opened the air hose shut off valve. Nothing happened, so I kept increasing the air pressure a little at a time and waited
between adjustments. Stayed well away from it, after a while it started making chirping noises as the tire slipped into place, when I figured it was done I shut
off the air and released the air pressure from inside the shop before I went near the tire.
 
I'm thinking you should put about 5 lbs. in so it squats pretty good. Then lube it up good and try driving it around making tight inside turns out on the county blacktop.
 
Put some 15-38's on one time. One tire went on fine the other could not get it to pop out. I bet I used that tractor for
six month before it pop out completely.
 
I just broke down and put a new tube in my 8N rear tire. Looked around the house, and came across some dog shampoo. Worked well. Both beads seated at about 10PSI, easily. Same stuff made removing the tire from the wheel easy, as well. But, I had to fabricate a bead breaker - first time, without, took about one hour for one side :-(. Second time, with the tool, took about 5 minutes, both sides. zuhnc
 
Leave it aired up and drive around pull a load with it aired up if
you can . This one I had put on is getting better all the time
cvphoto96316.png
 
I agree with put it on and drive it around, has worked for me before. BTW the best bead lube ever is 3M silicone paste, its pricey but its magic on anything rubber.
 
I saw on the internet some people putting a strap around the outside of the tire and then inflating it. But from what I could see, most of these tires looked like tubeless. Would a strap like this work on tube tire?
 
no, the strap (usually) causes the bead to move outward toward the rim flange for initial capturing of air when trying to get the bead even partially
sealed. It mostly pushes outward enough for the bead to touch, not adding any to the force the air supplies.
My recommendation to you is to reduce the pressure in the tire just above where the bead touches the rim shoulder, not the flange. Use a tire iron to
loosen the part of the bead already touching the rim until all of the bead is just touching the shoulder all around evenly. now apply Ru-glide lube
to the whole bead and shoulder so it has a chance to come over the shoulder all at once, rather than crooked. I remind you that 50 PSI is 50 on every
square inch of the tire's inside. lets say there is 2000 square inches in the sidewall facing up (tire laying on the ground) Put 50 psi in it and you
get 100,000 pounds of force ready to blow the rim to bits as it jumps an inch outward. Go gently! Jim
 

Euro paste tire lube is a gift from god... If you ever get a chance to try it you will say Holly $it I got to get's me some of that... Its the best bar none...
 
As a young guy, I worked in a tire shop in a rural area. We regularly did rear tractor tires and would inflate to 80PSI to seat a bead because we were in a hurry. Murphy soap helps.

It's at least a 6 ply, maybe much higher ply. The tire isn't going anywhere. I would bet the rim would split before a tractor tire blows.

Don't know why mfg put max pressure of 40 or 45 on a tractor tire. My guess is that it would take over 100PSI to get one to blow.

BTW, this is not a recommendation, just some history.
 
That's dangerous. Yesterday my local tire truck came and mounted 4 military Hummer tires on my NH skid loader ,37"x12.5x16.5 , 6"taller than the regular tires.Used bead lubricant ,but had to use tractor tire bead blaster to get them out to the rims. Took about 10 minutes for each . Then he changed both 24.5x32, 12 ply combine tires and one had a tube in it . Used bead breaker to get old off and then tire lube and raising and lowering jack to get new (used) tires mounted . No problem setting bead and pumped to 28#. took about 45 minutes/tire.
 
A John Deere B would be tube type rims, even if mounting tubeless tires on them, wouldn't they. I haven't seen mention of a tube here and if they need/have tubes using ether to try to seat them would seem even more wrong than normal. If it has a tube, has it gotten caught between the bead and rim in that area?
 
Let it flat use some Murphy's mounting compound. You just rub it around the rim and bead. If there is a gap just fill with the compound. It will start to come out as you put air in. I'm cheap so I wipe the excess off as it seats and put it back in the can till it is on and quits coming out of the bead. Might have to do this to both beads. Over inflation sometimes tends to wedge the bead against the rim and interfere with it seating. We had a couple rear combine tires we could not get the beads to seat. Tried everything including a strap around the outside, the bead was about a half inch from the rim. I got some of the murphy's dope and filled the crack all the way around and it went on like magic. Went to the other side and done in minutes. a few years ago it was only about 11 dollars for an 8 pound pail was plenty for the combine tires only used about 2 inches out of the pail so far in this time.
 
Update - I finally got the beads set on both rear rims. What I did is buy some of that Murphy's Tire Butter and plastered it in the section that wasn't seated. I then put 40 lbs of air in each tire, and put the tractor in the sun on a 85 degree day. When I got home from work after 8 hours, to my surprise, both rims were seated. The sun must have made the rubber flexible enough to allow the air pressure to push it into place along with the help of the tire butter.
 
(quoted from post at 13:57:29 08/09/21) Update - I finally got the beads set on both rear rims. What I did is buy some of that Murphy's Tire Butter and plastered it in the section that wasn't seated. I then put 40 lbs of air in each tire, and put the tractor in the sun on a 85 degree day. When I got home from work after 8 hours, to my surprise, both rims were seated. The sun must have made the rubber flexible enough to allow the air pressure to push it into place along with the help of the tire butter.
Click to expand...


The sun probably increased the pressure by 15 lbs too.
 
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