You turned the key/ignition switch on, used the jumper wire to engage the starter and crank the engine, then removed the jumper, correct? If it stayed running after you jumped the solenoid to start it (without a jumper wire feeding power to the coil) it would seem your ignition switch and the wire to the coil from it are ok. If that is the case your problem is somewhere in the starter circuit. The other small terminal on the solenoid should be for a resistor bypass, it does not control your ignition, it will run without that bypass hooked up as long as the power wire from the ignition switch goes to the coil. It only supplies power to the coil (on the same coil terminal as the wire from the ignition switch) when the solenoid is energized to power the starter. If you check it without a wire hooked to it, a test light should only light on that solenoid terminal while the solenoid is engaged (engine cranking). When the engine is running the ignition coil is supplied by another wire controlled by the ignition switch. When you turn the key on does the terminal on the coil that has the wire from the ignition switch (not the terminal with the wire going to the distributor) have steady power?
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Oliver 70 Row Crop - by Staff. The Oliver 70 was part of the "Fleetline Series" and was manufacturered from 1937 to 1948. The row-crop configuration could have either dual or single front wheels. The Oliver 70 was also offered in the standard, orchard and industrial configurations. The tractors were sold in Canada. An early advertisement states "Power when you want it - power when you need it - power to help put in crops when field conditions are right and time and help are limited. That's the power you'll find in an Oliv
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