No, the ram is too long. But I did finally get the roll pin out.
Here's what I did. I glued a length of 1/4" rubber tubing in a 'U' shape around the pin on one side with rubber cement leaving about 1/4" clearance around the pin. I took a piece of ECBM rubber and a piece of plywood and clamped it over the glued tubing to hold and seal it. Then I sprayed penetrating oil in at the top. Topped off the penetrating oil every day for 3 days and let it creep. Put a small can under neath to catch any penetrating oil that might leak. Not much did. I think the only leakage was from overflow. I sucked in the rod, disconnected the hydraulic lines, slid it forward and up and lifted out with my engine hoist It's out and on the ground. I ordered a gland wrench off Ebay tonight and need to find/order the seals. WOOP!!!
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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