Bad ground is 99% of brake problems. Check all grounds , especially trailer to truck. Look at the magnets , do they appear burned(blue black color). A burned magnet loses its magnetic ability , if so replace them. Check that the activating arm moves freely and is not rusted tight, so anti sieze on the moving parts is important. LISTEN :Get someone to push the brake pedal down in the truck while you listen by the trailer brake...You should hear a hum. This is the magnet grabbing the drum face. If there is no hum the brakes are not activating so start running checks ie) bad ground , broken wire,burned magnets, seized activating arm and so on. The brake controller will give different readings depending how high or low it is set, but I think 8v should be activating the magnets. When I do trailer brakes I pull the drum and look.If the drum is rusted the brakes aren't working, if the drum face is rusty the activating arm is not working, if magnets are bluish in color they are burned , if none of this then the adjusters are seized and need to be freed up or replaced and the shoes set up with slight drag on the drum. Also over the years found that if magnets shoes etc are bad its cheaper to buy the entire brake assembly and eliminate a lot of mechanical time changing each component. Four bolts and a wire connection and you have the new assembly on and ready to go. Good luck
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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