Posted by Destroked 450 on April 17, 2020 at 09:26:42 from (66.38.93.182):
In Reply to: Hay cutting pattern posted by Grandpa love on April 16, 2020 at 06:03:35:
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If that ditch running from the tree to the garden is big enough that it bounces your tractor and equipment around when operating at normal speed I'd lay that field off in 3 sections, start with the section where you come thru the gate mowing clock wise, this puts the tractor next to the ditch, trees and fence, best to find a washout, downed tree limb or fence post with the tractor than with the cutter bar, none of those sections are big enough to get setup for straight back and forth mowing, i'd just go around the field until that section was done then cut out the back swath before moving to the next section, this way should you have problems there's not one strip of uncured hay around the outside swath when the rest of that section is ready to bale.
If that ditch is just a low drain that can easily be crossed split the field into two sections with the 400x100 ft section below the big ditch being the second section.
Some spots I'd leave as I believe in never mowing into a corner that I have to back out of, you waste more time mowing raking and baling those spots than the few bales you'll get are worth.
With your style rake I like to rake 2-3 double windrows (around the field and back) to make room for turning around, then rake back and forth starting at the longest point and working down to the short rows, I've found this is makes raking and baling much easier.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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