I would stay with full length sheets. If you need to get them up on the roof from the ground I have done it both ways. One is to use extension ladders for a slope, to slide them up with a hole punched in the top edge. To pull with a wire having a rope attached. The other and better way was with a telehandler. Put a couple of planks across the forks laying the steel on them to lift them up so the sheets can be put in place. Several sheets will help hold rigidity to them. They can stand to be over hanging the planks by 4-5 feet without kinks or damage. I would get the heaviest steel I could get like 24 ga., and let them stick out on both ends a few inches like 3-6. This will help with water not running back under at the eve end with your flat slope. Also will help with protecting the top edge of the wood. I would also leave the top row of screws out. Till I got my piece in under the top edge, to catch any water that might get under the edge. Then use the same screws to hold both on. 24ga. will be rather stiff and will hold well against wind and flexing. I would also screw it on the top of the ribs with your flat roof, so water doesn't run in under the screw heads. But then we always put them in the top even on a 12 12 roof.
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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