[quote="SkiB"](reply to post at 09:33:10 11/25/19)
Thank you all for your thoughts.
Scott730: I realize the metal can be cut in 1" increments. When project is final next spring, I am planning to have 1" over hang over the front and rear walls/facial.
Paul: Yes, removing 6 of the building as wall structure and cement block are very weathered (rot) from years and years of rain/leaks. There is only 1 pitch on this roof, no peak. A new pole/post wall structure will be installed vs a new footer and cement block ($$$). The salvaged 6 piece (whether cutoff from the overall 30 or new 6 piece slipped-lapped underneath the 24 ) after shortening the building, will not be wasted as I can use these on the siding project.
Russ MN: good thoughts on expansion/contraction. I will be purchasing painted Galvalume vs Galvanized metal. I will used Light Gray or a White in color. My thinking is there are pretty much 3 standard roof coatings on the shelf. White, aluminum and black.
Michael Soldan: I agree, that s one of my thoughts by installing the two pieces vs one. I have an 18 trailer and think I can place the 24 pieces on it (with some support). I ll save the transportation charges if I can can do.
495man: heck yeah, yes, I ll have them cut when doing the siding project. The less I have to fool with snippets, the less blood cuts I ll have- haa.
MarkB MI: my thoughts also. I guess the best way to get a straight line cut would be with a saw, and that s not going to happen as the paint will burn. Snips/electric shears is the only way to cut painted metal and I will agree with you strongly, hard to get a straight line.
Vadave: when I purchased this property, I decline insurance on this building. I will be insuring it once I get the roof on, then up the value $$ after the siding and doors project are installed. Currently are 4-TG pine sliding doors across the 40 width. What monsters weigh these are. I will build a steel framed slider doors (kit I believe) for two of the four. I ll close off/ side the other two as I am planning to install a 10x10 overhead on another wall.
Steven Newell: as I mention above, no peak, just a 2.5/13 pitch. Tacky tape, I believe the supplier offers this and probably a great item to use as the flat type pitch on this roof. I ve not priced barrier material yet. Maybe it s the same a dry felt? I just wondered it felt paper would work? You refer to the poly-tarp, I assume this is/are the tarps sold at the big box stores with the eyelets on the outer edge?
Everyone: Thank you for your thoughts/ideas! I appreciate others viewpoints. I believe I will go with the two piece (24/6) design per the overall length. I maybe be able to install the 6 ers without drilling many screw holes. My thinking is I slip it up and under the 24 piece, I maybe able to retain the far edge in place by screwing down a 2x4 a top of (minimum screw holes) this camping it in place until spring.
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