Your locking it the way your pulling on it. The collar does not have a chaffer on the front side. It is actually under cut just a little bit so the lock ring stays in once assembled. So you have to have the ring compressed and THEN slide the collar over it. No need to force it with a puller or anything. The only thing I do is check for a burr on the edge of the snap ring grove. Run your finger across it and IF you feel a burr just take a file and lightly level it out.
Put the collar on the shaft. Then put the ring in the grove. Then take a regular old pair of pliers , hold them perpendicular to the armature. Clamp the ring in the curved part of the pliers jaws. Set the ring to where the pliers are holding it completely shut and in the bottom of the grove. Just hold enough pressure on the ring to close/seat it. Your going to slide the pliers off the ring with the collar when you lock it in place. So while lightly holding the pliers closed with one hand I take a smaller hooked pry bar and by setting the back against the starter drive you can easily POP the collar over the lock ring. If your fighting it you do not have the lock ring in the bottom of the grove on the armature.
You can put the lock ring and collar on way faster than I just typed this. LOL
P.S. Make sure you have the collar on the armature correctly. Meaning the opened side towards the lock ring. Don't asked me how I know to look at this. LOL It does look like it is backwards in the photo but it may be right too.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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