I don't care what length the chains are as long as they aren't dragging on the ground. The breakaway tether should be attached to the trailer hitch frame or the vehicle frame, NOT to the ball insert if it's a recv'r hitch! Those inserts can come out and then you have no breakaway if the tether is hooked to the hitch. The tether should be short enough to activate (pop the plug) BEFORE the chains would come tight in the event the trailer becomes unhitched. I've tested a lot of breakaways and I have yet to see one that will lock the brakes on even an unloaded trailer. I'm telling it like we were taught in DOT school, there may be State laws that spell it out differently. As we were told, the breakaway should activate just before the chains come tight even if the regular service brakes remain attached and working. They were supposed to keep the unhitched trailer now being dragged behind you more or less straight and not whipping around, maybe busting the chains and it was to help keep the trailer from rear ending you...which it will do if there are no brakes and you slam on the towing vehicles brakes.
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Pat Browning. The setting is rural Wisconsin, halfway between East Troy and Elkhorn, on Hodunk Road, our nation was at war, and I was 6, 7 and 8 years old. George was our "threshing neighbor." He was the one with the threshing machine, a JI Case on steel wheels, and he pulled it to our farm with a JI Case standard tractor also on steel. In those days, steel wheeled implements were common. The roads were general gravel, so the lugs cutting into them wasn't a problem. George would set up the thresher, s
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