I believe it was posted on "Tales" by George from Terre Haute. After so many days, "Tales" runs off the end of the spreader (so to speak) and the oldest posts are lost.
There's lots of theories about how the innards of those distributor caps corrode so badly, and GM has issued some service bulletins over the years regarding the screened vents in the distributor base, etc..
As I understand it, it MAY help to get the AC lines away from near the cap and /or insulate them 'cause the cooling effect on the cap MAY cause more condensation inside.
Cam sensor (which is in the distributor) offset is not adjustable after a certain year because of the pinned distributor holddown.
Theory is that is you defeat that and tweak the distributor position to get the cam sensor offset as close to "0" as possible, (need a scan tool to check this)the rotor tip will be closer to each individual high tension terminal when spark occurs, making for a shorter distance for the spank to jump between the rotor tip and high tension terminal, a shorter spark inside the cap = less ionized air and less corrosive ozone which (along with moisture) tears up the aluminum high-tension posts inside the cap.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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