Posted by paul on July 06, 2019 at 13:32:47 from (76.77.197.114):
In Reply to: tin roof posted by 714_run on July 06, 2019 at 11:35:49:
I would try to track down and follow the manufacturers instructions.
I’m most familiar and comfortable with in the rib and most of the tin roof I’ve worked with is a 3 or 4 rib type.
But I understand some of the different patterns have new specs of working in the flat.
To be honest on the shed dad built in the early 1960s I’m now going across the bottom and screwing down the bottom edge in the flats. The nails he used are pulling loose and the hole is pretty big to even get a screw to hold well, I put a screw in the nail hole but also putting a shorter screw in the flats to help hold down. So, it depends..... the himesawn wood and the tin from 1960s is pretty good yet, just need to work on the loose nails. Those were the type with the lead heads, the lead is mostly all off and the tin has enough room to vibrate and leak a tad. Fortunately they were on the ridges, and so the leakage is not much.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
... [Read Article]
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