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tin roof

7

714_run

Member
ready to install a tin roof. I think I would like to put the screws in the ribs not the flats what do you think?
 
You talking corrugated or panel?

The old corrugated recommended on the ribs, but that was back when it was about twice as thick and would stand up to the nail being driven through. Not sure what the recommendation is now, but I suspect the mfg will have some instructions.

Panel type recommends in the valley with lap screws on the overlap. There are very specific directions for installing it.

For a building with finished interior, standing seam with no exposed fasteners is best.
 
You must be smoking something. Read the mfgs. instructions. All you will do is cause leaks and irregularities at the coronations and the steel will not be securely fastened.-------Loren
 
The place I buy my metal off of recommends in the rib but I see most everybody else putting it in the flat I personally like putting it in the rib
 
Instructions say on the flat. You cant expect the sealing washer to get a good seal if it does not have any backing for it. If its on the rib the screw is an inch from the backing and open to allow the panel to flex and break the seal.
 
Metal I put on 25 plus years ago used screws in every other flat, and "stitch" screws on the overlap/rib. The "stitch" screws were short metal screws which didn't go into any wood underneath, so the rib wasn't drawn down.

Buildings put up here over the last few years use screws in every flat, and nothing in the overlap/rib. Better, simpler.
 
I would try to track down and follow the manufacturers instructions.

I?m most familiar and comfortable with in the rib and most of the tin roof I?ve worked with is a 3 or 4 rib type.

But I understand some of the different patterns have new specs of working in the flat.

To be honest on the shed dad built in the early 1960s I?m now going across the bottom and screwing down the bottom edge in the flats. The nails he used are pulling loose and the hole is pretty big to even get a screw to hold well, I put a screw in the nail hole but also putting a shorter screw in the flats to help hold down. So, it depends..... the himesawn wood and the tin from 1960s is pretty good yet, just need to work on the loose nails. Those were the type with the lead heads, the lead is mostly all off and the tin has enough room to vibrate and leak a tad. Fortunately they were on the ridges, and so the leakage is not much.

Paul
 
what I think? you will creating yourself leaks that way. on the flat there is a rubber gasket on the screw to seal itself. cant tighten a screw in air. not gonna work cause you will be dimpling the tin on each rib.
 
(quoted from post at 12:36:56 07/06/19) tin?
really?.....
tin?

huh
Click to expand...

Hang in there, you'll figure it out one of these days.

Tin is a common euphemism so sheet metal or sheet iron in some areas. Don't be confused by regional variations in terminology, this is a world wide forum and takes some thought sometimes.
 
On the flat as it will tighten the roofing to the sheeting or purlin. If you put the screw in the ridge you will have no way to gauge how much you flatten the ridge at each screw which will change how each sheet lays, often this will cause the overlap not to properly cover the previous sheet. I made the mistake once, always put screws in the flat after. The building with screws in the ridges leaks, those on the flat don't leak.
 
The companies that make the steel roofing say screws go in the flat areas when used on roofs and ribs when used as vertical siding. I have done many roofs as recommended and had zero leak issues.
 
Use good screws. Some are made for attaching to wood and some for steel. The screw head needs to cover the rubber washer. Any exposed rubber will dry out and crack and lead to a leak.
 
To be technical, some screws are made for metal, some for solid-wood, and some for plywood. That and of course in various lengths. Also - I just did part of a roof with stainless-steel washered screws because I was going into pressure-treated wood. Many choices.
 
On the flat as it will tighten the roofing to the sheeting or purlin. If you put the screw in the ridge you will have no way to gauge how much you flatten the ridge at each screw which will change how each sheet lays, often this will cause the overlap not to properly cover the previous sheet. I made the mistake once, always put screws in the flat after. The building with screws in the ridges leaks, those on the flat don't leak.
 
Pick up the phone and call the metal manufacturer. They will likely tell you to put the screws in the flats, with a minimum of 1" thread in the wood. They will also likely recommend 1/2" insulation board under the metal. They'll even tell you how to cut the metal. It won't cost you anything for this expert advice. They want your metal roof to be something that you will be proud of and something that you will speak highly of for many years to come.
 
My old aluminum barn roof was nailed on the ridges and was leaking. I pulled nails and put a dab of high quality sealant in the hole and replaced the nail with a screw seems to be working but I have more to do. RJT
 
Some manufacturers will also change their fastening requirements depending on the pitch of the roof. And the panel profiles offered for different pitches.
 

My experience with 30 years of having metal roofs on my house barn and shop is that the metal expands and shrinks in the heat and cold and that continuous flexing over time causes the holes to get slotted and the screw does not cover the hole anymore or the rubber sealing washer breaks and disappears and/or the screws working loose with wind action, the longer the roof slope the worse it gets.Bigger sealing washers than what comes on the screws are not to be had anywhere.
Either way regardless of where you put the screws( on the flats still works the best) there will be leaks in a few years and it can't be avoided.
Metal roofs are certainly not fool proof no matter what the salesman claims.
I have to go on my roofs every year or so to replace screws that are gone or missing the rubber washer and I find plenty that have worked loose.

My 2 cents
 
We get 24 gauge steel for material. Then we screw it in the ribs. Never in the flats if you don't want a leak. I have had steel roofs on things for over 50 years with few issues. Big thing is that 29 gauge stuff is junk from the beginning. Only used that on 1 roof and have regretted it since. My brother has a building with it screwed on the flats and leaks like a sieve. I need to go pull the screws out in the leaks then put new screws in on the ribs with a sealer on the holes on the flats. Not sure how successful that will be. I think it has a new steel roof in the future coming.
 

It appears to me that there is already a trend away from metal roofs except for standing seam. I feel sorry for seniors who get talked into a metal roof for their home, so that they won't need to worry about it for the remainder of their time there, then get leaks after 5-6 years and can't afford to get it replaced.
 
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