Medium to shorter grass hay rakes just fine with my cheap 3pt wheel rake. Tall grass (can be 5 feet tall in my swampy area before I can get to mow it) is tough to rake with a wheel rake, just too much stuff for the wheels to handle. Last couple years I have ended up mowing with the disc mower, and round baling it directly without any raking. It is so thick and long it fills the baler pretty good. Can come through and rake the scraps after if I missed much. This assumes a dry window to let it lay long enough. Otherwise I can use my old NH bar rake to rake it, but I tend to get too big a windrow for the baler with even one pass.
So, depends what type and volume of grass hay we are talking about. If you grow grass on lighter ground that won’t grow a row crop you should be fine? Here locally we grow grass hay on wetlands more or less too wet to farm for row crops but dry up most mid summers, real low ground and that can lead to some very heavy and over ripe hay crops. Those are tough to manage any which way with the wet ground, wet hay, humid summers... ah geez now I’m depressed again just thinking about it..... ;)
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let’s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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