I'm one of the few people left in my friend circle that still owns a dwellmeter and knows how to use it. I don't like unisets because the spring is so weak the engine won't rev up like it should. But they do work. Nowadays, the first thing I like to do is install a conversion kit such as the ones offered by Mallory, Pertronix, and others. I think the price is around $80, and you never have to touch it again.
When you wiggle the rotor like the other poster said, pay attention to the amount of up and down movement. Sometimes it's necessary to pull the distributor out, remove the drive gear and add a shim to take up some of the slack. If the shaft wobbles in the housing, throw it away and get another one. The factory ones are riding in aluminum, the aftermarket ones ride on bearings.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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