Forget about the carb for now. It was the last thing you changed, and is likely the problem, but - lets see if the rest of the stuff needed to run is present. You will need a can of carb cleaner(any brand), blade screwdriver, a plug wrench or socket, and a battery charger. A helper is nice, but not required.
1. Turn the fuel off at the tank. Leave it off.
2. Remove all plugs, and attach the plug wires to them, lay the plugs on the top of the engine so they are touching metal.
3. Remove the air cleaner hose to the carb intake.
4. Set the throttle to about 3/4 open.
5. Set the choke to off, or open(no choke).
6. Leave fuel OFF. Crank the engine for a bit, and check for spark on EACH plug.
7. Let the battery recharge for a bit, and the cyl to dry out.
8. If all plugs showed spark, put them back in and attach plug wires.
9. While the helper is cranking the engine, spritz carb cleaner into the carb intake from about 3-5" past the intake. The engine should fire a bit, and run rough while you are spritzing.
10. If the engine fires, remove the carb and diagnose why you aren't getting fuel to the main or idle jets. Most likely something in the float, or needle and seat which allows fuel to be delivered to the float bowl.
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Today's Featured Article - The Engine Rebuild Kit - by Curtis Von Fange. I always liked engine rebuild kits. They have all the replacement parts for overhauling an engine without going to the store to get gaskets, special measuring tools, or miscellaneous parts. They come neatly packaged, clean and tidy. But it's important not to let that packaging lull you into a false sense of security. The appearance of matching sleeves, pistons, rings, and bearings can cause frustration and agony if not properly measured and installed in a workshop environment. Following c
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