I see a lot of "bad condenser" posting but never a why! As I just stated in this post, the device is "two conductors separated by a dielectric"...definition of a capacitor/condenser...like in condensing or smoothing out something rough...like ignition spikes occurring when the ignition coil attempts to keep primary current flowing when the points open, thus "attempting" to stop it and in doing so produces the high voltage secondary pulse to fire the plug. Is soothes this spike to keep it low and slow enough to not arc the points when opening.
You take one or two pieces of plastic sprayed with aluminum (in today's market) oiled impregnated paper with aluminum foil sandwitched (in the old days) of sufficient spacing and area to get the required storage/voltage stand-off required. You attach one "plate to one wire and the other to the other wire which is usually welded to the case. Roll it up, stick it in the case, put a cap on it glass seal the cap and you have your product. Funny, in all the Motors Manuals, Chilton, I and T, OEM published literature, I have never seen a value nor voltage breakdown rating of the points condenser. So I have no idea as to what it's supposed to be.....
So in failing out of the box is it shorted or open? If shorted or open, did it get inspected after assembly? NO! Either condition and if it were out of tolerance for capacitance value would be detected and the component rejected. If shorted your points could be replaced with a piece of wire and your ignition fuse would blow. If open your points wear out prematurely.
Other possibilities are the wrong value. If the value is wrong your timing (dwell) wouldn't match your engine spec per your service manual. Anybody try different numbers? When I ran gas I used to turn the dist CW till the engine started limping, turn it CCW likewise and set it in the center. Ran for years, cars, trucks, tractors....
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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