I bought a M100GX and a M135 GX both new in 2014. The M100GX work fine and did everything I asked of it, but it wasn’t as much tractor as the bigger M135GX . All the controls were the same and the cab was the same too. The smaller tractor had a smaller loader and smaller tires all a round. As I said it worked fine for feeding round bales, and silage, but didn’t interchange with the bigger tractor, so I turned it in on a new M6 141 last spring. These two interchange well. I know this doesn’t answer your question, but I did have one and that’s why I traded it. The M100GX will be a nice yard tractor for your Daughter’s operation, and those new cabs are built for fellas in the six foot and taller . The doors open wide , windows are large , and generally a comfortable cab. I didn’t find the regen on the emission control was really a big issue. So long as the engine is revs are around 1600 it will reg while you are using the tractor. I have been out ploughing or baling hay when it needed to regenerate, and I never stopped working, nor did I notice any loss of power. Not a lot more I can tell you other than , make sure the bolts that hold the loader subframe on to the tractor are tight. The loafers on both my tractors both had the bolts come losses and back out. So I turned one out, and it was greased before it was put on! So I called the dealer, and asked , What the heck!! They told me that they greased the bolts when they put them on , so if they ever had to remove a loader in the future, it would come apart easy. I told them I would rather have red lock tight on the bolts. So they told me bring the tractor in , and they would remove the bolts, clean the threads, and reinstall with red lock tight, at no charge to me, so I did. No problem since. Hope ‘this helps. Bruce
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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