I tighten the castle nut while the tire is turning and tighten it until it loads enough that the tire stops and is difficult to turn (no free wheeling). The bearings are now seated and then I back the castle nut off without disturbing the tire. When loose enough that I can turn the nut with my fingers I set it so it lines up with the hole in the axle and drop the cotter pin in. Spin the tire and shake it. It should have a tiny amount of give and should spin freely. I've never lost a bearing doing it that way.
ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS use wheel bearing grease - do not use grease from a grease gun - it isn't heavy enough to last more than a season at most. Unless you have grease zerk on the hub and can keep the bearing filled with fresh grease. Several times I've pulled a hub off that "was just greased last summer" and the bearings are a little oily looking - all the grease gun grease is gone.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1929 McCormick-Deering 10-20 - by Randal Simmon. On July 4th 1998 my dad and I was sitting on the front porch when he said that he was going to sell his two 10-20's to a junk man. He said that the junk man was going to give him $500 for both of them but he hadn't received the money for them yet. So I went into the house and wrote him a check for $500 and bought them myself and said now they are mine. He had bought them about five years before thinking that he was going to restore them himself. After five years sitting in the barn, he changed h
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