First, check the obvious, bad lamp, bad fixture, bad ballast, bad switch.
The most common causes of a dead circuit are:
Defective breaker, especially ground fault breakers. Check for power at the breaker, where the wire connects.
A tripped GFI receptacle. The receptacle can feed other circuits down stream.
A bad connection behind a receptacle. Many contractors use the push in spring clip type receptacles. They are prone to get loose, burn the spring and loose connection, especially where there is a heavy load, like a washing machine, heater, etc. If aluminum wire was used, this is a very common problem. If you know which breaker controls the light, turn off the breaker, check all the outlets in the area to see if any are on that circuit. Then start pulling the receptacles out, inspecting the wires. CAUTION!!! Some outlets share a neutral! If the neutral has failed, or when the neutral circuit is removed from the receptacle, power can back feed from another circuit, making the neutral hot!
Trying to determine what is on a circuit is somewhat difficult. Typically the lighting circuit is separate from the outlets, but not always. The general rule, try to imagine the route that would use the least amount of wire. It is rare for a wire to be spliced inside a wall, but it happens. I usually assume that as a last resort. Check, double check before tearing into something unnecessarily.
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Today's Featured Article - Converting from 6 Volt to 12 Volt - by Chris Pratt. It's a common problem for old machines especially when the weather starts to dip below 40 and the tractor isn't fired up as often. You are probably used to the 12 volt Diehard, charged with 200 amp alternator of your 3/4 ton that always is ready and always starts. It's this type of experience that brings about the many queries we get for 12-volt conversion kits. Since only a few kits are available (we sell kits for the
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