Well we all can second guess here as to what , But really what is needed is and old fart that worked on those engines when new and built them . Now i am sure your not in my back yard and a road test is out of the question here . many moons ago i worked for a large Ford dealer and headed up there Drag club and kept our two cars running . Built many 302 ,351 Windsors and coutless F E's and the Bosses and the 385 blocks . So really with out a test drive and hands on we would be guessing . Now i am not up on the Holley Avenger carb so i guess i would have to look that one up . If it like the OLD Holley's then i was the wizard on them . So on them first place i would look is the power valve , Those had teltale signs of being bad , (1) Like hard starting , where ya had to crank for and extended time to refill the fuel bowl after setting , (2) hard starting hot acting like the engine was flooded . Now surging can be caused by improper jetting and todays' let build and engine out of the Summit Racing book is the new engine builders dream . as we can not make a call and give the CARD # and UPs will drop my parts off and i can BOLT them on and it will go . I have no idea what your engine is doing on vac. at and idle or on a cruse or WOT as this will determan what power valve and jetting . Timing , i have no idea what your timing curve is as i BUILT all my own dist. for app. some i used a single point set up and some i ran a dual point , some with vac advance and some with out . I have no idea of your compression ratio or the cam your running as here again this can affect the carb set up . . Now as to the MSD myself i have only worked with one MSD system , No take that back two and both were used on pulling tractor builds and BTW both were top winners. when i had had a problem child i had the means at the shop to put them on the scope and run them on the Dyno , Or i could put my small portable scope in the car and drive it on the and see what the ing. system was doing in a real driving situation . As to fine tuning the carb i could stick the TUBE up the pipe and also go ahead and laugh a Sniff test . You could have a timing chain starting to stretch and allowing the cam timing to bunch around . May even have a couple lobes wiping off the cam . rocker arms coming looses bent push rods . I had one 69 ford Torino that had a 351 W 4 Bbl. with a four gear that belonged to one of the girls that was in the drag club that drove me goofy as that car would run great , then just all of a sudden just up and die , they would drag it in on the back of a wrecker and i would jump on it and each time a new set of points and cond seamed to solve the problem only to have it come back a couple days later , sometimes after the ride on the back of the wrecker it would start and run fine for a day or two. at the track it screamed . I ended up taking the car and driving it myself for a solid week before it died on me one morning heading into work and i found the problem while setting along side the road ,it was the resistor wire from the key switch to the coil . And because of this my new diagnostic tool for tracking down this problem was a scavenged dash litebulb socket and a 1895 bulb hooked to the coil and a ground stickup up from under the hood When the light went out you had no juice , replace wire .
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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