Common problem, a little varnish and setting around can cause a little rust, and you get stuck valves. If I smack one with a hammer, I use a rubber mallet. Soak, smack. The last one I had stick, the valve was too far down to soak it, so I tried a trick that I stole from this site. Take out all of the spark plugs and find a way to turn the motor over, BOTH WAYS, so you can rock it back and forth(turning the fan,socket on the crank shaft, etc.) Bring the piston up to the top on that cylinder.you can stick a screw driver in the spark plug hole to tell when you are there. Pull the cylinder up a little and fill the cylinder with a piece of rope,(leave a foot sticking out of the hole)turn the piston back to the top and when it stops the rope should be pushing the valve up from inside. You must take you time, or you can bend the valve and then you have to pull the head. When you get the valve moving even a little bit you can spray more stuff and tap it down with the rubber hammer. The last one I did took three days,every time I walked past I either rolled the motor,tapped the valve and shot my favorite rust buster,acetone and atf,mixed 50-50(BTW it will separate so you need to shake the oil can every time you squirt.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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